Grab these berries and fruit trees at our best prices of the season! We can even gift-wrap them for you if you're looking for a creative gift.
Figs including Black Mission, Conadria, Desert King, Panache (Tiger Stripe), and Violette de Bordeaux.
Pomegranates including Parfianka and Wonderful.
Blueberries including Emerald, Jubilee, Misty, O'Neal, and Sharpblue.
Blackberries etc. including Baby Cakes Blackberry, Boysenberry, Prime-Ark Freedom Blackberry, and Triple Crown.
Raspberries including Canby, Shortcake, Baba Red, Heritage.
Cymbidium Orchids
We have been waiting to get cymbidium orchids back in stock for what seems like forever! These easy-to-care-for orchids do well outdoors on patios here in the Napa Valley. Place them in a spot with as much light as possible without burning the leaves. As with many types of orchids, deep green leaves mean the plant is getting too much shade. Lighter colored leaves correlate with more flowers. Keep roots evenly moist. These cymbidiums are heavy feeders and will benefit from generous fertilizing during active growth. MaxSea fertilizer is a great option!
Grow Blueberries In Pots
We recommend planting blueberries in pots because, here in the Napa Valley, our soil is not acidic enough to make these plants thrive. Blueberries require low Ph and actively decomposing soil, and Napa's native soil and water just doesn't cut it! But if you follow these steps, you can harvest handfuls of super sweet berries from your own container grown blueberry plants.
Step 1: Get your Blueberry bushes. Cross pollination means more berries for you! We recommend buying three different types of blueberries for maximum berry-bounty.
Step 2: Get your containers. Choose a container size to suit your plant. The blueberries we're selling now are all in 4 inch sleeves so they're best off being moved up to 2gal or 5gal container. (Next year you can move them into containers that are 16-20 inches wide.)
Step 3: Mix your soil. We recommend 1 part Micro Bark + 1 part Peat Moss + 1 part Acid Planting Mix + 1 handful of Soil Sulphur per plant.
Step 4: Care for your blueberries. Don't ever let your container dry out! Fertilize with an acid based fertilizer once a month from May until September. An organic fertilizer mix of cottonseed meal, fish meal, and feather meal has proven to be great blueberry food. And remember, blueberries love full sun.
Holiday Open House Tomrrow!
Santa's elves have been busy transforming our giftshop into a winter wonderland full of sparkling trees, festive decor, and nice smelling soaps and candles.
Join us for holiday cheer! Tomorrow we’ll have cider and refreshments. Enjoy the holiday shopping throughout the Garden Center!
**Saturday, Nov. 8th 9:00am - 5:00pm**
Refreshments served 10am-3pm
Looking Forward
Looking Forward
Here are some of the things you can look forward to this cool season. Mark your calendar for these hyper seasonal items so that you don't miss out, and make plans to spend time in your garden. It's good for your mental and physical health, after all.
November: bare root onions and Farmer's Market Favorites
They're here now! Bare root onions are your best bet for a successful onion harvest. They're really popular with the old timers and serious onion growers. We expect onions to be restocked next week.
Interested in planting blueberries, figs, grapes, blackberries, or raspberries? FMFs are the best way to go! These 4''x4''x9'' sleeves will explode into big beautiful plants by the time summer rolls around.
Early December: handmade wreaths
Our stunning holiday wreaths will be available for preorder this weekend at our Holiday Open House. Incredibly fresh and made from materials growing at our ranch in Napa, these wreaths are top quality!
Early December: bare root 'Eclair' strawberries
Culinary garden professionals know, if you have the option of buying big leaves or big healthy roots.. you choose ROOTS, every time! Eclair is a June-bearing variety that is famously fragrant, sweet, and juicy. Berries have a hint of raspberry and citrus.
Late December: bare root roses
Our largest selection and best prices of the year! See the beautiful blooms that we are bringing in for the 2026 rose season. Planning on planting 5 or more roses of any one variety? Put in your special order ASAP.
Early January: bare root fruit trees
Again, the best selection and prices of the year! Talk to Aileen or Dan if you want help picking out a fruit tree perfect for your tastes, garden space, and/or timeline.
January: bare root 'Albion' strawberries
Strawberries are a wonderful companion plant for onions/garlic, asparagus, cucumbers, lettuce, rhubarb, cilantro, yarrow and nasturtiums so consider tucking them in any empty garden spaces.
January: pruning / dormant spray fruit trees
Broken branches, aphids, peach leaf curl, scale, fungus, and blight all need to be dealt with while fruit trees are leafless and dormant in the winter. January is when you want to prune most fruit trees and apply a dormant oil and/or copper spray, depending on the type of tree you have. We love Master Nursery Pest Fighter Oil and Monterey Liqui-Cop. There is a small booklet with the product label on the back of each of these containers that has specific instructions for different types of fruit trees. Our staff can help you read it or advise you on your particular tree if you bring in pictures.
Bare Root Onions
Our staff's favorite way to plant onions arrived this past weekend! Bare root onions come in bunches of 25 and look a lot like the scallions you buy in the grocery store. Plant these young onions now, 1 inch deep and 6 inches apart, and harvest them as bulb onions in May! (Tip: since onions are harvested in late spring, don't place them where you want to plant an early spring veggie garden.) Be sure to fertilize regularly with nitrogen if you want really big onions! We love blood meal, fish meal, or fish emulsion for fertilizing onions.
2025 Bare Root Onions Varieties
Red Burger - An improved Stockton Red variety.
Red Rock - Vibrant red, jumbo-size red bulbs with a globe shape.
White Castle - Jumbo bulbs with bright white skins when cured properly.
Yellow Merlin - A classic yellow Spanish type. More arriving next week!
Walla Walla - Famously sweet! Eat them right away.
Candy Yellow - A sweet hybrid that can store for 3 months.
Torpedo - An Italian favorite with an elongated shape.
Lucille - An improved Desert Sunrise. A flattened globe shape with purple skin and mildly sweet white flesh. More arriving next week!
and...
American Flag Leeks - Produces 10" long tasty leeks with white necks when blanched.
Find these onions in our bedding department alongside our winter veggie 6packs. Don't forget to plant your garlic this time of year too!
Forcing Paperwhite Bulbs
An easy way to plant Paperwhites indoors…
Start by carefully placing a layer of stones or pebbles to a depth of about 2" in a small vase or about 4" in a larger vase. Clear vases with tall sides are the most fun because you get to see the rooting action and the flowers won’t flop over when they’re growing!
Next, place a layer of Paperwhite bulbs close to each other, roots facing down on top of the stones. Put a few stones or pebbles around and between the bulbs to anchor them in your vase. Leave the tops of the bulbs exposed, though!
Add water until the level reaches just below the base of the bulbs, but no higher! If the bases of the bulbs sit in water, they will rot and die.
Now you wait…
Set your vase in a cool (50-60°F is ideal) place away from direct sunlight. Check the bulbs frequently and add water when the water level is more than 1" below the bottoms of your bulbs.
Check for roots once a week and move the container to a sunny window once you see big healthy roots growing down into the water.
Keep a close eye on watering! Bulbs in active growth can dry out in just a day or two.
Expect to see flowers WEEKS after you first plant your bulbs.
Once flowering is done, we recommend you compost your spent bulbs. They will not bloom again indoors.
There are, of course, many ways to force bulbs indoors! This is just our favorite way for people who are trying it for the first time.
Houseplant Care
TAKING IT HOME
Avoid planting your indoor plant directly into a decorative pot. Keeping it in a plastic pot typically allows for superior drainage, and it makes it easier to move the plant around since the decorative pot can be moved separately.
Keep in mind that the light conditions in your home will likely be different than what the plant has previously experienced so they may need an acclimation period before new growth emerges. Plants like Ficus benjamina, weeping fig, may drop leaves with dramatic light changes, though this can be mitigated with keeping the plants well watered and reducing other sources of stress.
Plants placed in too bright of light may have sunburn spots develop on the leaves. These are spots of dead, pale tissue, sometimes with browning around the edges of the spot. Plants that are not receiving enough light often stretch their stems out towards the light source. They may drop leaves and have a general lack of vigor.
Avoid placing plants where drafts from heaters or air conditioners will flow over them as the dry air will dry out the plant.
TRANSPLANTING
When the roots of your indoor plant have filled its current pot - which you can identify by roots growing out of the drainage holes, the plastic of the pot bulging, or roots circling around the surface of the pot - it is time to transplant. Ideally, you should transplant into a pot that has a diameter 2” larger than your current pot. For example, if your plant is in a 6” pot, it is best to plant it into an 8” pot.
Do not wait too long to transplant after the roots fill the pot as you will need to break up the root ball and the more root-bound the plant, the more trauma to the roots that will be done. When transplanting rootbound plants, either cut away the outer roots around and at the bottom of the root ball if it is a plant that can handle heavy root pruning, like Ficus. For more sensitive plants, like ferns, use a tapered stick - chopsticks work very well for this - to gently detangle the roots all around the root ball. Some tearing of the roots is normal and inevitable.
Many indoor plants need excellent drainage from their pot and soil. If repotting into a new pot, choose a pot with multiple drainage holes and potting soil (never soil from the ground!) that is recommended for indoor plants. Soil products that we carry that we recommend for houseplants are:
Master Nursery Eureka Planting Mix
Great for plants that need excellent drainage, like Ficus and Dracaena
Bumper Crop Potting Soil
Good for plants that like to stay moist without the soil staying saturated at the bottom of the pot, like Calathea and many aroids
E.B. Stone Edna’s Best Potting Soil
Classic houseplant media, has mycorrhizae and wetting agents to help nutrient uptake and moisture retention
Good for plants like Calathea, Monstera, Philodendron, and other aroids
E.B. Stone Cactus & Succulent Mix
For palms and succulents
Peat moss is a good addition to potting media for acid loving plants like ferns.
WATERING
Deep watering is best for plants that dry out between waterings or when using a water soluble fertilizer. How to deep water: sit your plant in a saucer. Water the top of the plant slowly until the saucer is full of water. Let sit in the saucer of water for about an hour, then remove from the saucer, discard remaining water, and place back in its location.
If a plant needs to stay moist, let the top half to one inch of soil dry before lightly watering. Do not allow the soil to get soggy as that will cause the roots to rot and the plant to fail. Plants experiencing root rot will typically have wilted and yellowing leaves, and the soil may develop an unpleasant smell, especially around the bottom of the pot.
Plants that are not receiving enough water will have wilted leaves that may dry and crisp. When correcting for underwatering, give the plant a deep soak, then let the soil dry out partially before watering again. Underwatering typically causes some roots to die, so that plant is not able to take up as much water as before. It can be very easy to overwater while the plant is recovering and growing new roots.
FERTILIZING
All container plants need regular fertilizer as every time they are watered and allowed to drain, nutrients are washed out of the potting media. There are two main categories of fertilizers that work for houseplants: liquid and granular. Liquid fertilizers are used when you water your plants, while granular fertilizers are applied on a regular basis following the instructions on the label and each time the plant is watered, nutrients are extracted from the granules.
Recommended Liquid Fertilizers:
Schultz Plant Food 10-15-10
Excellent for all house plants
7 drops/quart of water every time you water
MaxSea All Purpose 16-16-16
Great for all foliage plants
1 tablespoon/gallon of water once to twice a month during the growing season
MaxSea Acid 14-18-14
For acid loving plants like ferns & Coffea arabica
1 tablespoon/gallon of water once to twice a month during the growing season
Recommended Granular Fertilizers:
Osmocote Plus Outdoor & Indoor 15-9-12
Good for all houseplants and feeds the plants for six months under normal conditions
Master Nursery Multi-Purpose Fertilizer 16-16-16
A balanced fertilizer that promotes root and shoot growth, good for plants that are well established in their pots
Master Nursery Master Start 5-20-10
Excellent to use when transplanting, as the high phosphates promote new root growth
African Violets
African Violets
Streptocarpus sect. Saintpaulia
Introduction to the Section
African violets are a group of around ten species in the former genus Saintpaulia, now considered Streptocarpus sect. Saintpaulia, in the family Gesneriaceae. They are native to tropical rainforests in Tanzania and Kenya, with many species found in the Nguru mountains of Tanzania. Many of the plants found in the houseplant market are cultivars of Streptocarpus ionanthus, though hybrids have been developed between other species.
General Care
Light
African violets do best in bright, indirect light. The ideal distance from a window is 2 feet with no direct sunlight hitting the leaves. Insufficient light can cause the stem of the plant to stretch as it looks for light, while too much light can cause bleaching and sunburn on the leaves. If the plant is not receiving enough light, it may not rebloom. Grow lights can provide supplemental light for this purpose.
Water
African violets in cultivation prefer to not have their leaves wet when watered, but they don’t mind having their roots exposed to near-constant moisture. Self-watering pots are a popular choice, but they aren’t necessary. They can also be watered by placing in a saucer and watering from the top gently until the water has moved through the soil and the saucer is mostly full. Allow the plant up to an hour to absorb all of the water that it needs and then empty the saucer. When the plant pot feels light, water again. African violets will not always need water weekly but they should be checked at least twice a week.
Fertilizing
Liquid fertilizers are the easiest to use with African violets as they can be fed every time they are watered. Some recommended fertilizers are Schultz African Violet 8-14-9 or half-strength MaxSea All Purpose 16-16-16.
Transplanting
African violets ought to be in a pot that is smaller than the spread of their leaves. The African Violet Society of America recommends using a pot that has a diameter one-third the spread of the leaves, meaning that most plants sold in trade can remain in their current pots for a while before needing transplanting. As long as the soil does not compact or break down too much, African violets do not need much root work or replanting. When you do need to transplant, use a mix with plenty of aeration and drainage. The AVSA recommended 1:1 potting soil to coarse perlite.
Things to Note When Shopping for Kale Plants
Our kale varieties come from a number of local growers. If you have a preferred variety and supplier, chances are we can get it!
Consider how long you want your kale. We recommend choosing a couple plants so you can experience the different flavor and textures the varieties offer over a few seasons. If you're a big fan a baby kale, it's good to have a plant that you will have dedicated to harvesting those early, tender greens.
All of our growers are free of neonicotoids. This means that all of the veggies we receive, whether they are certified organic or not, have not been treated with any of the harsh pesticides in this category.
Hybrid does not equal GMO. A hybrid is the result of two plants gettin' together to make a new plant.